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Performance Suspension/Mounts/Interchange/Part #'s/Refrence List & Add. Information..
#41
Finally found some time to work on the car yesterday. I figured I would do all the ES bushings and the sway bars.

A couple corrections for the list, first 4-3114 is not a Rear LCA Bushing kit, it is an upper and lower kit with "round " front LCA bushing, scrap it from the list completely.
I am driving around with rear poly UCA and one rear lower one 1/2 done. You want to use the 4-3115 kit.

Second correction for the list, Sway Bar Mounts for TC bar #9-5167 - these are about 1/4" short if you use the stock LSC brackets. I am going to try ordering the 4-5101 and see if they fit better.

Anyway, after 4 or 5 attempts to shim the bushings so I could drive the car, I finally got it right. Of course the stupid little clips that hold the nut for the brackets were broken, so I had to squeeze a 16mm wrench up in there to hold the nuts. While tightening the last bolt, the wrench slipped and cleaned the fitting off the bottom of the power steering reservoir :nono:
Well, I knew in my storage (40 mile round trip) I had a re-man, so off I went, got the pump, got it in.
So after 10 hours, I got rear UCA poly'd, 2 new sway bars and a power steering pump. Glad this wasn't a flat rate job.

The good news, holy sh%t, what an improvement in handling, even on wet roads. I went thru a few corners that I take every day, and it feels like I am driving a new car.
I can't wait to finish the job to see how good it is with the rest of the rear and the front done. I noticed some extra road noise and I imagine it will get worse when I do the rest of the bushings, but it’s worth every bit of it.

Maybe it wasn't that bad a day after all :headbang:
88 LSC:

347 11.0:1 comp; AFR185 Heads ; E303 cam (emissions :grumpy: ); 1.7 crane rockers; FMS coated shorties; GT40 intake (Tom Moss ported lower); FMS 70mm tb and EGR plate; Kirban AFPR; TCS 9.5" 3000 stall convertor; BBK O-road X pipe; Cat back 2 1/2 with dynomax hemi's; flex-light electric fan; 3G 130A alternator; Transgo HP shift kit; Crane HI6 ingnition and coil; TC front swaybar, Addco rear; walbro 255 pump; 31 spline trac-loc and moser axles: richmond 410 gears; SN95 spindles, 13" Cobra brakes, KYB shocks and struts, MMCC plates ; MAC CAI; FMS 30lb injectors, 75mm MAF and X3Z EEC-IV module; All new leather inside.



On Shelf:

For the first time in 5 years, nothing



Future:

Sub Frame Connectors, Dis where are you
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#42
Silverfox, thanks for the offer, but i'm set right now.

88mk7, Let me know how those tc mounts work.
97 LSC - blk/blk, Sniper Tuned, 13"cobra brakes, 05+ staggered saleen wheels, hubswapped, kybs, ss shock mounts, ss brake lines, JMOD, 4.10s, eaton truetrac, 8000k hid's, spider valve v3, x pipe, 3rd cat deleted, lms muffs, air silencer delete, k&n, 160* Tstat & MUCH More.
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#43
kEEP ME POSTED on the TC mounts.
------------------------- Dan Gilsdorf ---------------------------

[URL="http://www.silverfoxtrans.com"][Image: 99x75.jpg][/URL] [URL="http://www.clickclickracing.com"][Image: banner.jpg][/URL]
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#44
I'll let you guys know about the TC mounts, will take a couple weeks as I have to mail order them.
88 LSC:

347 11.0:1 comp; AFR185 Heads ; E303 cam (emissions :grumpy: ); 1.7 crane rockers; FMS coated shorties; GT40 intake (Tom Moss ported lower); FMS 70mm tb and EGR plate; Kirban AFPR; TCS 9.5" 3000 stall convertor; BBK O-road X pipe; Cat back 2 1/2 with dynomax hemi's; flex-light electric fan; 3G 130A alternator; Transgo HP shift kit; Crane HI6 ingnition and coil; TC front swaybar, Addco rear; walbro 255 pump; 31 spline trac-loc and moser axles: richmond 410 gears; SN95 spindles, 13" Cobra brakes, KYB shocks and struts, MMCC plates ; MAC CAI; FMS 30lb injectors, 75mm MAF and X3Z EEC-IV module; All new leather inside.



On Shelf:

For the first time in 5 years, nothing



Future:

Sub Frame Connectors, Dis where are you
Reply
#45
Just a thought from my experience from the front rebuild. Most alignement shops I've dealt with Just adjust the toe. They do not want to adjust the camber. So you are responsible to get it as close as possible to factory specs as you can so they can fine tune it later.
Before you take it all apart, get reference measurements on your current alignement. My thinking is have the front up on stands wheels off at ride height and ready to disassemble. This should be the same position you torque the NEW completed assembly back to factory specs. Having a print out of your last alignement and knowing how she steers is good. Maybe a bubble level on the rotor, dial indicator, a good Eyeball, and multiple measurements, reference points, and Marks.

Any better ideas would be appreciated.

I would even recommend a pre and post printout of the new alignement after you've finished. It can be useful if you have to chase down a tracking problem.
91 LSCSE Electric Currant Red

Stk. 1.125" swaybar w/ Moog Rubber mounts

Moog LCA bushings, ball joints, Inner and outer tie rods, Reman rack

E.S. urethane end link bushings on OEM links

Steeda rear lower control arm bushings

Moog rubber upper control arm bushings

Motorcraft Struts, Moog Mounts, Koni Red shocks
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#46
We need confirmation that Steeda X2 ball joints will/will not work with the front arms. I think the conversation ended with YES they would fit the arms but NO they will not fit the spindles.....Is there a spindle that we can convert too that would keep the ABS ring/rotor combo? I would only assume the strut mounts/tie rods would be the same.
------------------------- Dan Gilsdorf ---------------------------

[URL="http://www.silverfoxtrans.com"][Image: 99x75.jpg][/URL] [URL="http://www.clickclickracing.com"][Image: banner.jpg][/URL]
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#47
I do know Ford used 2 different size balljoints on the fox cars and the taper is different between the 2. I have heard rumors that a spacer can be used/made/purchased to use the bigger spindle on the smaller taper balljoint. MY experience is that the SVO/ Continental front coil spring lower A arm uses the bigger balljoint as I have done this conversion on a few Mustangs. Mustangs Tbirds et-al used the smaller taper
there is no such thing as too much boost, there is such a thing as not enough bottom end!
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#48
Okay newbie........J/K Howdy Chris....do you have any more detail as to how you can mate the smaller (presumably the X2 is of the smaller breed) to the SVO/Cont/Mark arms. One thing to consider is safety or longetivity?

Is it okay to post this on a sticky thread? SOrry.
------------------------- Dan Gilsdorf ---------------------------

[URL="http://www.silverfoxtrans.com"][Image: 99x75.jpg][/URL] [URL="http://www.clickclickracing.com"][Image: banner.jpg][/URL]
Reply
#49
Quote:Is it okay to post this on a sticky thread? SOrry.

More information in one place, the better. :headbang:
97 LSC - blk/blk, Sniper Tuned, 13"cobra brakes, 05+ staggered saleen wheels, hubswapped, kybs, ss shock mounts, ss brake lines, JMOD, 4.10s, eaton truetrac, 8000k hid's, spider valve v3, x pipe, 3rd cat deleted, lms muffs, air silencer delete, k&n, 160* Tstat & MUCH More.
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#50
i say you just light a match to the pos and burn it, hah j/k mayn. I think you should run dynomax oval bullit race mufflers and either go out in front of the tires or just dump it. Them dynomax's sound fuckin badass on my bronco, i have no complaints about them at all! Smoke it
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