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Removing Rust Underside of Door
#1
Just noticed it yesterday . I was going to sand to sand it down and put some rustoleum rust inhibiter on there.

Ideas ?
Edward's



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#2
Your plan sounds ok, but...if you don't get absolutely ALL the rust off, it will come back eventually. If you do use a rust inhibitor, make sure you follow it ( after the given dry time)with primer and then paint. Just primer (shaker can type) can absorb moisture and lead to further rusting, so you don't want to have just primer (or the rust inhibitor) on it by iteslf too long. Paint it asap afterward.

Also, make sure the rust isn't starting on the backside, from between double sided steel (sandwiched together) because there's no way you can get at it all. Replacing the metal is the only sure long-term fix in that case. Cool
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#3
I've heard great things about this:

Eastwood Rust Encapsulator

You can get aresols or tins of it to spray/brush etc...
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#4
I might just order some of that stuff . It may be too late since I already started to notice some bubbling on the other side.
Edward's



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#5
Quote:I've heard great things about this:

Eastwood Rust Encapsulator

You can get aresols or tins of it to spray/brush etc...


hmm, thanks for the link, after winter ends im gonna fix some of the spots under my doors adn well, seems to be the main spot in these cars, have a lil bit foming under the trunk lid as well..noooooooooo!!! Cry
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#6
I need to get some of that stuff for my Malibu. I think one of the doors is a goner, but I'm most concerned about the bubbles I'm getting around the rear window. Would be difficult to replace that sheetmetal.

Do any of y'all have a preferred method for rust removal in somewhat tight areas? I can get most of it off using my dremel with a sanding bit, but it's kinda difficult to get ALL of it that way...
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#7
Quote:Do any of y'all have a preferred method for rust removal in somewhat tight areas? I can get most of it off using my dremel with a sanding bit, but it's kinda difficult to get ALL of it that way...


Do the dremel thing, then treat with acid (available from Eastwood in a spray bottle, couple different types, get the right one), then neutralize, then prime with that rust encapsulator stuff mentioned. Worked great for me, and shit I fixed 2 years ago hasn't rusted back.
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#8
I've got a few sandwich spots other then the bottoms of the doors . What would a body shop do to remedy this ?
Edward's



1987 Lincoln SVPU LSC R -#001

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#9
Speaking of Rust Wink

Just took my 83 cutlass out from the cover and noticed the undersides of the doors are getting worse.

Actually I found another rust product that I wanted to get your opinions on .Don't know how many of you have even used/heard of this product but it looks promising.

http://www.therustdoctor.com/how-to/rustdoc_uses.html

For now what grit sand paper would be acceptable to take off the surface rust ?


The LSC has to got to a body shop the rust is so bad that the paint is bubbling on the exterior .
Edward's



1987 Lincoln SVPU LSC R -#001

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#10
What grit you need to remove the rust depends a bit on how heavy the rust is. You can try steel wool first, or some 120 grit sandpaper if the former doesn't work.

What type of cover was on the car? It may be trapping moisture and that will promote rust big time, especially in damp areas.

Another thing you can do if the car is stored in an enclosed area is to drive it onto a plastic tarp. This prevents moisture from cement/ the ground getting to the metal of the car. If it's stored outside that isn't an option though.

I can't offer any opinion on that product since I haven't used it.
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