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Brake question
#1
:chin:Greetings,

Just did a major brake job on the Stang. No rocket science here. I`ve done a million brake jobs in my life and this one was no different. Everything went smoothly. However The driver side front brake caliper will not release all the way and the rotor heats up after a few miles. I can rotate it by hand, but you know it just too tight. It just doesn`t spin freely as it should. I understand there will always be some residual pressure. This exceeds residual pressure. It`s like the brake is partially applied, but only on the drivers side. Oddest thing is after about an hour of sitting, the front wheel will rotate freely. Everything is new. Including wheel bearings. I figured I was ready for another hundred thousand miles. The only thing I didn`t replace was the flex hose. Any ideas? I`m just shopping around for answers. Thought I`d stop here too since I haven`t been around for some time. I`m perplexed.

Thanks,
Rock`
`98 Dakota R/T: Gibson headers, MP CAI, MP PCM, MSD, K&B

`01 Mustang GT: Stock

`69 Dart Swinger 340 (Couldn`t keep it stock)
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#2
You implied you replaced the caliper? Could the new one be defective. You know I have heard of those flex hoses collapsing internally and causing this sort of problem. You wouldn't think on a 01 car that it would be a problem yet though. If you can bend it and see cracks you should replace it anyway. Did you let the caliper hang from the hose? That can wreck them I'm told. Did you maybe accidentally kink the brake line on that side?
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#3
The only thing I didn`t change was the flex hose. Initially I didn`t replace the caliper. I only replaced it because I couldn`t figure out what was going on. I was very careful with the original caliper. I supported it properly and pushed the pistons back into the caliper as square as practical. I thought maybe I botched something up during this process so I replaced the caliper only to find the problem still persisted. I bled the crap of it thinking maybe I pushed some trash up into the system but I guess that wasn`t it either. The car drives fine. It doesn`t pull while braking or drift in either direction when I take my hands off the wheel. The rotor just gets really hot like I`m resting my foot on the break pedal while driving. This is really goofy.

Rock`
`98 Dakota R/T: Gibson headers, MP CAI, MP PCM, MSD, K&B

`01 Mustang GT: Stock

`69 Dart Swinger 340 (Couldn`t keep it stock)
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#4
Are you sure it's your brake getting things to hot? Could you have a bad wheel bearing? Although when you jack it up and spin it you should be able to hear if it's making bad noises.
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#5
I`m pretty sure it is the rotor. The bearings are new as well. I took everything off yesterday to see if I did something wrong. I`m like," come on, there are bolts. What could I have possibly done wrong". I did it anyway. Front brakes a really simple. I`ll replace the flex lines and just start working my way up stream. Don`t know what else it could be. I really hate to take it to the shop. I hate when simple jobs become nightmares. :freak:

Rock`
`98 Dakota R/T: Gibson headers, MP CAI, MP PCM, MSD, K&B

`01 Mustang GT: Stock

`69 Dart Swinger 340 (Couldn`t keep it stock)
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#6
If you think that the caliper is pressurized, it is easy to determine which component is faulty.

Get the wheel locked up or dragging. Starting at the master cylinder, start cracking open the brake line fittings till the brake releases. Usually when the fluid pressure is released, brake fluid will spurt out for a second. If you make it all the way to the caliper bleeder screw before it releases, then the brake hose has a damaged inner lining.

Process of elimination.
ASE Master Tech with 15 years experience


Daily Driver: 1994 GMC Sonoma, Extended Cab, 2WD, with the 4.3 V6 Vortec.
Future plans/projects: Finishing that darn 64 Malibu SS
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#7
Quote:If you think that the caliper is pressurized, it is easy to determine which component is faulty.

Get the wheel locked up or dragging. Starting at the master cylinder, start cracking open the brake line fittings till the brake releases. Usually when the fluid pressure is released, brake fluid will spurt out for a second. If you make it all the way to the caliper bleeder screw before it releases, then the brake hose has a damaged inner lining.

Process of elimination.

:yes: Sounds like a good plan.

Unless all the lines and fittings are so rusty you don't dare crack them loose.
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#8
Then that is the plan. I think I`ll replace those flex lines anyway. Hard to believe this car is 9 years old with 100k on the odometer. I bought it new and it doesn`t seem like it has been 9 years.

Rock`
`98 Dakota R/T: Gibson headers, MP CAI, MP PCM, MSD, K&B

`01 Mustang GT: Stock

`69 Dart Swinger 340 (Couldn`t keep it stock)
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#9
My bet is on the brake hose
1998 BMW 328i 5 speed

H&R Touring kit 1.5" front and 1" rear

ASA AR2 17x8 and 17x9

Yokohama S Drives 225/45R17 and 245/40R17





Quote:Oh thank you Tanner-boss.



Quote:No i bend over quite often and take it like a man too. :lol:
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#10
All better. How can a simple brake hose cause me so much grief? Oh well, thanks.

Rock`
`98 Dakota R/T: Gibson headers, MP CAI, MP PCM, MSD, K&B

`01 Mustang GT: Stock

`69 Dart Swinger 340 (Couldn`t keep it stock)
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